Wearing it Well: A Guide to Looking Good

By Betty Lou Coleman, Pride of Kentucky Chorus, Region 4

If costumes grew on trees would you know which one to choose or when it was ripe? We might choose the big, beautiful, red apple that would not serve us well if we needed to bake a peach pie.

There are so many factors involved when costuming a quartet or chorus that we sometimes lose sight of our end goal — to embellish the main course, which in our case is the performer. The last thing we want to do is have the costume wear us!

The term costume can refer to wardrobe and dress in general, or to the distinctive style of dress of a particular people, class, period, character, holiday, nationality or an artistic theatrical performance. We’ve seen just about all of these within Sweet Adelines!

Through the years our costumes have evolved from choruses rigidly standing all in a row, wearing little black dresses and pearls, to some pretty fabulous, flamboyant visuals today. The challenge is to know how far you can go without losing the performer. If our audience walks away from our performance talking only about the great costumes we wore, then we either need to beef up our performance or tone down the costume.

Remember, all that glitters is not gold! Blinding the audience with glitz will only make them miss our performers and the musical message. Shiny fabrics, such as satin, should be used only for a carefully designed costume. If the costume hangs or fits flat on the body, stage lights will reflect from all raised areas, such as love handles, and could possibly make even the smallest person look like a “bag of doorknobs.”

The use of different colors and textures of fabric can be very effective on stage. Understanding that a costume does not require sparkle or shine is really difficult for true Sweet Adelines to accept. After all, we all have stories about where a stray sequin or two has shown up! That’s a book in itself, I’m sure!

Costumes do not need to be expensive or intricately designed to be effective. Our new International Chorus Champion, Rich-Tone, looked fabulous with a very simple shawl worn over black slacks and tops.

My chorus, Pride of Kentucky, had a fire that burned the majority of our costumes about two weeks before contest in 1988. We went with our backup costumes, which were all different styles of white decorated with silver or rhinestone sparkle. We won the contest that year and still use that white-with-silver concept.
Our contest rules say we should appear as a unit, not necessarily all alike. The different concept is a great way to have an extra costume that can be adjusted to our ever-changing body shapes and growing memberships. Each member can choose a costume that complements her figure but must be reviewed by the costume chairman for the overall chorus appearance.

There are things that need attention for this different costume concept or for that matter, any costume to work. Remember, costumes are not always comfortable or wash-and-wear but should always look in pristine condition, even if they are not! Makeup smudges and other marks are not always noticeable, but wrinkles are hard to miss!

Here are tips for the unit look even if the costumes are different.
Visual balance and proper fit are the secrets to success!

Fit: First and foremost for any costume — it must FIT properly! When the costume chairman is measuring folks she should have them wear an all-in-one and then make them laugh — and while they are laughing, measure quickly before they can suck it in again!

Our audiences view us as we truly look, not as we would like to look. We must stop trying to kid ourselves. Costumes are not fit like normal clothing. We need to breathe and move and have the costume return to its original position without tugging on it. Sleeveless tops or short length bottoms should be worn only if they are truly attractive on the individual or the entire group. Properly fit costumes, however, can make a design that is uncomplimentary to some members, acceptable for a chorus unit appearance. Sleeveless tops for a chorus should always be avoided. Costumes must complement the entire quartet; three doesn’t count!

Color: Each color, including white and especially black can vary greatly and will be apparent under stage lights. This does not mean all costumes must be made of the same fabric, but they must give the same appearance. Viewing fabrics in bright sunlight is a great way to detect a good match. Dye lots must match if using the same fabric.

If you choose a color theme or pattern, the color intensity of the hue must be the same. You could use all pastels, all primary colors or an equal balance of both. If you choose one outstanding color of a different intensity or pattern, it also needs to be balanced throughout the group. Patterned or designed fabrics should be large enough to be detected from a distance or they will look solid. A large print or plaid becomes more distinct from a distance and should therefore be matched or aligned with all other costumes unless you are going for the varied “different” appearance.

Texture: Textures of like-colored fabrics can look very different on stage. Velvet and cotton look very different and if used within the same unit, must be evenly placed or distributed throughout the group. Using different textured fabrics of either the same or different color can add interest and impact to costumes. Sequins or sparkling, shiny fabric can be considered a different texture and must be balanced on each costume or within each group of performers. For example: Our white-with-silver costumes were basically white with silver embellishments; the basic costume was not silver with white embellishments. Too much silver or sparkle would draw attention and detract from the overall visual balance.
Style: Decide on the visual effect you want — formal, casual, sporty or character. The style selections must vary within your chosen theme and be placed strategically within the group for balance of the overall picture.

Wearing different tops with bottoms that are the same is not as visually effective as total diversity. Encourage variety with tops and bottoms — skirts, long, short, full, handkerchief, angled, fringed, ruffled or tea length, slacks, shorts, slim pants, wide pants, etc. Tops can be long-sleeved, short-sleeved, halter, strapless, angled or sheer. The variety and difference within your theme makes it interesting and gives a great final effect!

Today’s Sweet Adelines are looking for the modern up-to-date appearance. However, a costume is a costume and should be designed to highlight the personality and style of the performer and the visual impact they are trying to achieve.

Costumes that are exactly alike make a very strong picture and are very effective with well-planned choreography. Different costumes can add spice and interest, and create a totally mesmerizing unit look. It’s great to have choices, but keep in mind that the purpose of a costume is to complete and enhance a well-produced performance!

Please don’t go out and burn all of your sequins and bling — we love that glitz! Just remember, you must always “out sparkle and shine” your costume!

Return to Pitch Pipe main page